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Scarlet Letter Woman

I go to a gym here. Yes, I have negative 100 assimilation points. It’s just like Crunch, but the trainers are nice and care about whether or not you do the exercises appropriately.

I met a guy at the gym. Not a guy guy. Like, a guy who’s interested in my work. Ok, maybe that’s naive. But aside from the being well-connected in Ahmedabad, he’s really not my type.  He asked to meet after work one day. So now the trainers tease me.  It’s awkward. 
 
Guy: Can you SMS me your number?  
Me: Uhh ok. Let me write it down so I don’t forget. [lift ball point pen, write SMS on my hand]
[Time Pass] 
Trainer: SMS!
Me: What?
Trainer: I’m just reminding you. You know? SMS. [wink]
 
Now, I look down at that ink SMS on my hand and feel like this Scarlet Letter Woman. But what really gets me is that so much business and networking happens this way, at social places like clubs and things. I wonder whether I would be so treated if I was a man.  Because there would be no question then, of the motives behind which I agreed to meet this person. Misguided? Clearly. 
But I don’t really care.

Straddling Worlds

This Saturday, I went to a modern dance performance at the Natrani Cafe at Darpana Academy of Performing Arts.  A rickshaw driver once described Darpana to me as, “Oh, you mean that place where all of the NRI’s [Non-resident Indians] and foreigner people go?”  Yes, that place.  That culture center, that escape into a parallel universe that aspires to beauty and is still very Amdavadi.

The dance performance Opus a Kath was by a French Dancer, Isabelle Anna, and her troupe Kaleidans’Scop.  They danced Kathak to Pundit J. Maharaj, Nono and Ravel.  The thing that struck me as I watched her shimmying janjra keep pace with Ravel’s ostinato snare was the way her performance reflected my life, and the lives of so many others.   I also walk with a foot on each ledge trying not to fall into a ravine. I am also both and neither. 

I’m not so sure that the world is getting smaller. Instead, the many worlds I inhabit simultaneously are coming closer and closer together. And so I find myself straddling worlds.

Sour Milk

Funny story:
 
Me: [to Ramilaben, our maid] Please put unused milk in the fridge so it doesn’t go bad.
Ramilaben: OK.

 
After I told Ramilaben this, I put the unused milk to set for yogurt. She put the pre-yogurt into the fridge. I have sour milk. 

I guess sometimes, despite our best efforts, we end up with sour milk.

Sari Day!

Sari Day happened a while ago, but these pictures never made it onto the blog. Check us out!!

Office Hotties.

Bijal, Belaben, Kruti, Keren, Meghna

India makes me love my mom.  She’s a daughter of this country. The daughter no one wanted. The daughter they kicked out.  And she’s never looked back. 

I was one of those emo teens with my hair in my face and dark moods. I’ve never fully grown out of it.  At family functions, I was usually sulking in a dark corner, dressed in dowdy Indian clothes and trying to avoid the dancefloor and my embarrassing mother. She was usually sweating through her silk, on a break from “busting some moves.”  So many times, she’d scold me saying, “No one will ask you to dance if you sit in a corner and sulk.”

I’m sitting in a corner of an office, in a corner of Ahmedabad realizing how true this is of every dancefloor. Life. Work. School.  Whether or not we like the song or the dancers, it’s so much more fun to dance. 

My mother also says that having fun is an art, a skill. You have to know how. I guess the first step is putting down these burdens and stepping onto the dancefloor.

Well here goes… = )

I met Ahmedabad

Ahmedabad straddles the Sabarmati River. The west bank is the New City, with shopping malls and multiplexes and wide highways, avenues and parks. It feels more like New Jersey than any city I know, which may explain Gujaratis’ predeliction for settling in the Jerz…but I digress. The east bank, the Old City, is the historic heart of Ahmedabad. Nowadays, most of the economic development happens in New City. The east bank, Old City, is the rusted industrial core of Ahmedabad, a ghost city.

This past weekend, I went on the Heritage Walk, a two-hour walking tour of Old City. Beautiful. Profound.

The walk takes you through pols, a network of over 300 self-contained microneighborhoods that are interconnected. Pols are a feature of A’bad urban planning that go back to the 1700s. The neighborhoods are organized by trades or extended families (often the same). Over the years, pols have facilitated communal violence because all of members of a particular religious group live in a distinct community, and everyone else lives around them.

There are gorgeous architectural details in these pols, but beyond those features is the rhythm of life in the pols. I always admire New York for being infinite – the city has a magic that comes from the multitudes of lives, of experiences, of New Yorks that exist in the smallest space. Take one city block. Now consider the number of separate experiences of the city that exist in that block. Now think of the pols. How many Ahmedabads could exist in a single pol?

I also loved that neighbors city outside in the squares talking about how the neighborhood is going to shit. And, it’s walkable. Amazing. Pols are entire secret city within the city.

Swaminarayan Mandir, Kalupur

Pols remind me of my grandparents’ Chali-apartments in Kolkata. All the doors are open and the neighbors spill into halls at all hours, scolding other peoples children for misdemeanors. And bird-sized cockroaches roam the hall. I felt at home for the first time in a long time.

Ahmedabad Events

Cultural Events

Cultural Events

Heritage Week
Heritage Week

Congrats to Rajubhai!

Rajubhai is 2009 Social Entrepreneur of the year!!!

 

http://www.forumblog.org/blog/2009/11/schwab-foundation-announces-indias-social-entrepreneurs-of-the-year.html

Calkata? Kolcutta?

In 2001, the city of Calcutta changed its name to Kolkata.  This change was heralded as a return to our roots and a break with the city’s colonial legacy. Many who grew up in Calcutta–Cal for short– find this change superficial, political and excessively wasteful. In 2001, Pubali Chauduri wrote in Times of India of the massive administrative hassles, including one episode in which the city police replaced 449 English typewriters with Bengali typewriters.

Another angry Bengali, Deeptarko Chowdhury, filmmaker and native Calcuttan sounds off here:

I know only the skin of the earth and it has no NAME!

So, there was this bloke in Bengal, with an itching palm’ and a craving for alcohol, but a promise made to his grandfather on the old man’s death bed did away with all that. In 1756 this bloke succeeded his grandfather to the throne as the Nawab of Bengal – the last one – Siraj ud-Daulah. And around the same time, the English East India Company was getting much too big for its boots. The Company refused to abide by the terms and conditions and was averse to the idea of paying customs duties. And how did the Nawab resolve this dispute? A battle, of course. So the Nawab attacked one of the fortifications of the British traders (Fort William) built in Calcutta, to proclaim his superiority. But unfortunately for the Nawab, his myopic policies failed him. A year later, the opium fuelled Robert Clive and his troops emerged triumphant in the battlefield of Plassey, assisted by a heavy downpour which rendered the Nawab’s firearms useless and one of the disloyal commanding officers of the Nawab, otherwise known as Mir Jafar or Gaddar-e-Hind (Traitor of India).

Thereafter, the Company built a new fortification, a new Fort William, after clearing a site at Govindpur, one of the three villages out of which Calcutta had grown... a fort which could not be attacked easily. After the consolidation of their position in Calcutta, a series of construction endeavours were undertaken along the periphery of the ramparts of the fort and the land eventually evolved into the imperial and majestic capital of the country and remained so, till 1912. Now, this imperial city started out as a factory in Bengal, the headquarter of which was established in what Job Charnock, an administrator of the English East India Company, referred to as Calcutta. Calcutta is the anglicised name for Kalikata (one of the three villages). There are several disputing theories regarding the origin of the name. It is believed that the name is a derivative of Kalikhetro or the land of the goddess Kali. Some say that it has been derived from the Bangla word for flat-land, Kalika.

As the city grew, there emerged a necessity for more educated individuals, who would assist the British in continuing their colonial regime. The introduction of western education created a new class of educated middle-class Bengali intellectuals, who inspired by the ideologies of the French, American and Russian revolution, sought to rectify the whimsical colonial system. Frankenstein! And this struggle continued till the country finally became independent in 1947.

Some fifty years later, when the city was staggering under the burden of its own mistakes and when beggars and the homeless still occupied most of the city’s roads, the politicians decided to promulgate anti-colonial sentiments by boycotting English in the elementary stages of schooling. Around the same time, other presidencies such as Bombay and Madras were changing their names to match the Indian phonetic. So, Calcutta raging with anti-colonial wrath obviously had to join the band-wagon. The Marxist Legislator Robin Mondal passed a resolution which stated that the state was predominantly Bengali and should be pronounced the way ‘we’ say it. But one almost misses the bigger picture: – As the leftist party began losing its support, it resorted to regional politics. And what better way of winning back its support base, than to strike them where it ‘tickles’ the most? And of course, we, like cattle-brained citizens subscribed to and basked in the glory of the erstwhile Bengali Nationalism, which now held no meaning, since the British were long gone. A fortune was spent to formally change the name of the city. Impoverished populace had no bread to eat. But that doesn’t matter… they can always eat cake.

P1040716

A photo of my grandfather's - Victory memorial in Calcutta


<3 Saath

There are a lot of reasons why I love my job.  The people are nice, there’s free chai twice a day and I get to the organizational management equivalent of brain surgery.

Today, I experienced another one of the reasons why I love my job.

This morning my regular rickshawalla, Ishvarbhai, was busy taking two Maaji’s [old ladies] to the temple.  So I worked from home till about noon and then I flagged a rickshaw at the nearest crossroads. The guy smelled funny, and he gave me shit about how far I had to go, but it’s hard to get a rickshaw. I got in.

He kept glancing back at me in my Nicole Ritchie sunglasses, and I kept ignoring him. As we approached my office, he made a wrong turn. I started yelling. I wouldn’t do this in America, but in A’bad you have to be on your guard. The yelling actually comes from dealing with a lot of people who try to cheat you. It’s a defense mechanism.

He started asking me if I worked at an NGO.  He must have figured from the Saath sign, and maybe my large backpack. Then, he asked if we had jobs available.  I probed for some details and it turns out his 19-year old son has a 10th-grade education [equivalent of High School diploma], and he lives in one of the many areas where we work.  I asked him to accompany me to the office.

<3 Saath!

The rickshawalla, Kanjibhai, came inside where I introduced him to the staff of our UMEED program.  Unemployment and underemployment are huge issues in India. Saath’s UMEED program provides job training and placements to young people living in slum areas.  Training is available to anyone with at least an eighth grade education to prepare them for jobs in a variety of sectors like call centers, computer repair, hotel management and bedside assistance. Umeed has trained and placed over 10,000 people in the past three years. From the website:

UMEED instills in [slum] youth the confidence and get up and go to develop enterprises to meet the needs of growing service and manufacturing sectors in the economy.

In a matter of three months, and with a nominal fee of Rs. 500, participants can train part time for their chosen career. UMEED assumes the responsibility for placing graduates with employers. Linking Kanjibhai to this opportunity for his son is a great example of how Saath interventions address systemic issues by dealing with immediate needs.

This isn’t the first time I’ve been able to link people with Saath programs. Our landlady’s maid’s brother has a ninth grade education and lives in one of the areas where we work.  He is also now looking into UMEED trainings.  Within a matter of months, this program can significantly improve a person’s financial position, quality of life and confidence.

And I get to come here to work every day. It’s a happy thing.